Edinburgh: A Travel Writer's Nostalgic Guide 20 Years Later

I recently received my third passport book, which is wild because it meant 20 years ago I was on a plane to Edinburgh, about to spend half a year living abroad in St. Andrews, Scotland. My first time outside of the country (save a Canada land crossing at Niagara Falls).

Passports, particularly in the US which has a relatively strong passport (in that it allows more seamless entry into most countries around the world), have come to symbolize a sort of freedom of movement. But lately, I’ve been coming to realize how restrictive the idea of a passport even is.

I owe a large part of my thinking here to Shanaz Hadib’s excellent Airplane Mode.

“While it is tempting to look on passports as documents of access, enabling us to move freely through the world, they are, in fact, documents that started out preventing travel, or permitting travel only along state-approved itineraries… the power of a passport to facilitate travel is a corollary to the power of the state to deny passports and prevent travel.”

As humans, travel is fundamentally our birthright. Curiosity about the horizon has led us to all corners of the earth. And while there are always going to be correct and necessary arguments about colonization and carbon footprints and cultural appropriation, travel is something I believe everyone has the right to. Movement allows us to encounter the world and ourselves in different ways, broaden our perspectives, and remind us that we all belong to the earth and the land, not any particular nation-state.

When I landed in Edinburgh as a 20-year-old, the first thing that hit me was the smell. A fermented scent of malt and yeast, that was blamed on a local brewery. The scent was so pungent, apparently the city mandated that the North British Distillery install an odor-containing tower. But that smell was so different than anything I had experienced. I got into a cab and was immediately overwhelmed. I came here because I thought it would be easier to study abroad in an English speaking country, but I could only parse one out of ten words my driver was eagerly hurling at me. The only question I could really make out was, “What spirit do ye prefer?” As a 20yo American, I hardly had a sophisticated palette, but I’m pretty sure he implored me to give the country’s whisky a good shot.

The other thing I remember when I landed is just how tired I was. I had never experienced jet lag before and even though it was early in the morning and bright as a gray, January Edinburgh day could get. They say not to sleep and force yourself awake. But I actually find a 1-2 hour nap when I arrive in Europe always makes me feel like a new person. You just can’t sleep longer than that or else you will be wide awake at night.

Edinburgh in January is also so cold. But this year, I went in July… it was still quite cold. But it was sunny, so all the residents were in a bouncy mood, and I enjoyed seeing the city again as an older adult.

As a travel writer, I often get asked what my favorite places in the world are, which is totally like asking who your favorite kid is, but Edinburgh always ends up on this list, just because you drive into the city and instantly “get it.” A castle on a towering hill, stonework buildings that look straight out of a medieval fantasy book, and people that generally make you feel welcome (especially if you’re coming from England, where I still feel some old resentments from that whole Revolution thing.)

Where to Stay

On my recent trip, I stayed at the Wilde Aparthotels in the Grassmarket area. I loved everything about this modern-feel hotel, which felt new and modern, was in a great location near the castle, and had a relaxing lounge area for early mornings or late nights. The service was lovely, especially as I arrived late at night, and the in-room amenities were stellar, which included upscale Smeg appliances, like a toaster and kettle — a must for afternoon tea!

Where to Eat & Drink

Scottish fish and chips far outrank anything I’ve ever had on the English side, just because I suppose they’re fresher and something about the batter is lighter and more flavorful. It’s always a cheap, easy meal that also warms you right up on a cold night. You really can’t go wrong walking into any “Chippy,” but Clamshell on the Royal Mile was where I hit up the first night of arrival, and took me straight back to my St. Andrews days.

For a sit-down restaurant that’s still not too stuffy, and full of Scottish food, Howie’s Waterloo hit the spot. I even tried haggis for the first time — and liked it! The closest thing I can compare it to is taco meat, as odd as that sounds, but spiced meat is spiced meat. They also have a vegetarian option!

For nightlife, the Grassmarket area in the shadow of the castle is a hot spot, where you can find a nice range of options from pubs older than America and more modern spots, most which have live music — the music styles really can range from more folk to modern covers, so if you don’t like one spot, keep trying the next spot.

What to Do

Even though the castle is impressive from the exterior, I’m always slightly underwhelmed by the interior, so skip it if castles etc. aren’t your thing. I was stunned this time around by St. Margaret’s Chapel within the walls, and the oldest building there — dating back to 1130. Though the stained glass is a relatively new addition, the colors still stunned me, and I always am amazed at how these chapels can feel so peaceful no matter how many tourists come blazing through for their pics.

If you have limited time, I recommend instead doing the Real Mary King’s Close tour, which gives an in-depth tour of what life was like in Scotland during the Black Plague, and how living in literally “close” quarters led to the disease spread, and how the city’s living conditions changed over time to become a bit more sanitary.

You also absolutely have to take a walk on Victoria Street. The stunning bright buildings have gotten a little more “Harry Potterified” since I was there 20 years ago, since Diagon Alley is said to be inspired by it, but it’s still a beautiful and colorful street, and doesn’t take up much time at all.

Edinburgh is incredibly walkable (especially if you dress right for the cold), so if you like walking (like me), I recommend going everywhere by foot if you can. You’ll see more of the city’s secrets, and stumble upon alleys and graveyards that leave you wanting to return to explore more.

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